There And Back Again, or: My Holiday Bite of the Big Apple
It's a new year and to kick off 2011, here is my report from my New York City adventures at the end of 2010. I've got my comfy casual clothes and freshly whipped hot chocolate, so settle in with me for this read... (And yes the title of this post comes courtesy of J.R.R. Tolkien: save the "hobbit," and "Homo floresiensis" comments for another time. I know I'm only 5'4", and there were no dragons named Smaug on this trip, no golden treasure, no riddles to solve, but certainly some fun adventures and a journey that felt epic enough, so read on.)
December 23, 4 AM, Central Standard Time. (Bonus points to you if you sang that line to the tune of the date/time stamp melody from the musical RENT." Extra bonus points to you if you didn't do that at first but then just did after reading my last sentence, knowing that there is some foreshadowing going on here.) I finished packing my layers of warm clothes in the dark of the St. Louis winter night and made my way to the neighboring MetroLink station to take the train to the airport.
Not quite the Hogwarts Express, but a decorated subway train certainly kicked off this trip in the right spirit.
OK, perhaps an overstatement, but I give it to St. Louis for the holiday trim in the MetroLink, making a "Holiday Express."
A short train ride later, and I was at the airport. A long line later, I was through security. Despite the break in the snow and ice weather, we still had to wait to be de-iced three times before taking off. The resulting one-hour delay meant I made the mad dash from O'Hare's Concourse G to Concourse B. Christmas Eve workout? Check. Fourth de-icing procedure of the morning? Check. On-time departure from a huge airport that knows how to prepare for winter weather? Check.
Ah, hello Airbus 319. What a welcome relief from the STL > ORD regional jet, you are!
The happy Travel Fairies must have been with me from the very start of the trip, because we actually landed at LaGuardia Airport (LGA) almost 30 minutes early. I rarely fly into LGA because JFK is usually better equipped to handle weather and delays, but the daytime arrival following a landing flight path that reminded me of growing up in Queens made for absolutely stunning views. Justification for a window seat? Check.
Clear skies, and apparently a fast tailwind.
Hello, Newark International (EWR). Sorry I won't be landing on you today.
Thanks for welcoming me back, Lady Liberty!
Lower Manhattan.
Midtown Manhattan: like a home away from home!
After the early morning start, there wasn't much energy left in me to do anything but unpack at Mom's house and nap. Which meant sleep until dinner at the Japanese restaurant across the street and then back to...sleep!
December 25, 2010. Christmas Day started with a mass being said in memory of my Mom's parents in the neighborhood church that is built in a 60s style circular shape.
Ceiling stained glass at American Martyrs Church.
An afternoon break called for presents to be exchanged and lots of snacking. What are holidays for?
Christmas flowers.
The remnants of the gift (card) exchanges!
Did someone say raspberry-chocolate Yule Log?
Then it was off to Manhattan for Italian food and my annual Christmas Date Night with Mom and Sis. This year, I kicked off the "Broadway Blitz" with the history-making second revival of La Cage Aux Folles, which was brilliant. Really excellent cast with strong evocative performances that breathed good fresh life into classic songs and an otherwise overly familiar story. As one of the stars cheekily told me later (Douglas Hodge, see below), this was a perfect Christmas show for the whole family!
Outside Da Marino: Ana-Liza, Lourdes, and me, happily stuffed on Italian food!
Welcome to La Cage - pink chandeliers and all!
My first full day in NYC, and the first show of my prized Broadway Blitz.
Kelsey Grammer (grey cap) at the stage door after the show (not stopping for photos but signing autographs). [Photo courtesy of Ana-Liza Quirolgico]
Forget the "Frasier" guy: me with Douglas Hodge, the Tony Award winning star of the show! [Photo courtesy of Ana-Liza Quirolgico]
December 26, 2010. The first of three (count 'em: 3!) Triple-Play days for me: three shows in one day (11 AM, 2 PM, and 7 or 8 PM). I know: exhausting just thinking about it - at least that's the case for mere theater mortals. But not for me. Love it!
First up was my first time (I think) at the New World Stages. I think from now on, I will try to include at least one Off-Broadway and at least one non-musical show into these Blitz trips. I chose this original musical, based on the children's books by Julianne Moore, after reading good reviews of the show. I was impressed by a very earnest adult cast with some solid vocal chops (I had seen one actress on tour with Spring Awakening).
Day 2, Show 2: Freckleface Strawberry.
And because there is ample waiting area space inside the New World Stages complex, I will certainly be back here!
Time Out New York Lounge at the New World Stages.
A break for lunch, then it was off to the next theaters...
I can't believe that this third show, La Bete, didn't do much better in its critical or commercial praises, and I also couldn't believe this was a revival - how have I not known about this play? It's genius! An original work that is told entirely in rhyming couplets! And the whole play is about language and reality and why the mediocre sometimes wins popularity over the intellectually brilliant, and it even uses the word "mimesis" in a rhyme! Oh wait, I guess now I know why it's not the huge hit that it deserves to be after all, despite the powerhouse cast (David Hyde-Pierce, lending his Tony Award and "Frasier" fame to the bill; Mark Rylance, who shows that he earned his Tony Award a thousand times over with an unbroken and unabashed 30-minute comedic monologue that would leave any other actor alive today out of breath and out of mind; and Joanna Lumley, from TVs "AbFab" who has a justifiably grand entrance as the Princess - let's just say that a lot of gold lame, glitter, and a wind machine are put to good use). It's sad that truly intelligent theater is not more successful because I thought this one was really smart and accessible all at once. (Personal note: I have always had good luck at the Music Box Theatre, which is also one of the most stunning interiors out of all the Broadway theaters: I've seen great plays here (Superior Donuts, The Farnsworth Invention), and have always been lucky with single-seat upgrades - thank you, Music Box!)
Day 2, Show 3: the revival of La Bete.
From one powerhouse cast to another, it was off to the musical adaptation of the Pedro Almodovar movie, Women On The Verge Of A Nervous Breakdown, with the likes of Patti Lupone, Brian Stokes Mitchell, Laura Benanti, Danny Burstein, and even Justin Guarini (sadly, Sherie Rene Scott and de'Adre Aziza were out that night). This show was a delight, albeit bittersweet: the day after I saw it, the producers announced it would close early, which is too bad. The cast really had fun bringing a complex movie to life on stage and they gave their best. It's always a treat to see La Lupone eat up the stage, and Brian Stokes Mitchell (and his gorgeous baritone-bass) has been off the stage for far too long. The true revelation though was Laura Benanti - forget the Tony Award for playing Baby June in the Patti Lupone revival of Gypsy - in this show she is all doe-eyed hilarity as the hopelessly sexy and saucy Candela: more Laura Benanti please! And Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, and every male model out there had better take note: this woman is abs-alicious and knows how to work it on the stage. Where does she hide the lungs to power her pipes?!?! But I suppose I understand the half-filled houses and lackluster reviews: this show is more visually stunning than musically memorable, which is not a good thing for a musical, of course. But imagine all the colorful energy of Almodovar's best movies blown up to Broadway proportions with moving sets, perfect costumes, bright lights, and splashy projection effects. I really wish this had come together to stay alive on Broadway longer and better - such high hopes! (And a note to future audiences: it pays to have a single seat, to pick-up your ticket early at the box office, and to persevere in bad weather - due to cancellations, my $35 balcony ticket was upgraded to center orchestra - a seat valued at $180: score!)
Day 2, Show 4: Women On The Verge Of A Nervous Breakdown.
Well, as you can tell from the Show 3 and Show 4 photos, this first Triple Pay Day was also the day that the blizzard hit New York. That's right: "Snowpocalypse 2010," as it was named on FourSquare (which also unlocked my Epic Swarm badge for more than 1,000 people checked in). The snow was falling heavily and steadily throughout the day, and the winds really picked up after the show at the Belasco Theater. This was not the pretty, cute, quaint, sentimental white stuff that is the subject of this song from the classic movie musical, White Christmas (Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye, Rosemary Clooney, Vera-Ellen [dubbed by Trudy Stevens]).
No, this was a genuine Nor'Easter thunderstorm that just happened to hit hard in sub-zero weather. So it was a blizzard peppered with thunder and lightning.
Blizzard at midday in midtown: still somewhat fluffy and pretty.
Times Square earlier in the day: lots of people still busy about.
Times Square as the afternoon came and went: Elmo's furry pelt is not doing well in the blizzard's snow and wind.
So on the night of December 26, 2010, I ran from the Belasco Theater to the nearest subway station and got on a Queens-bound train covered in snow and ice. The theater even announced that all cast and crew were being practically evacuated after the show (meaning no autographs or photos). Wearing my glasses above-ground no longer made sense. I made it to Kew Gardens only to witness no fewer than five MTA busses stranded in the roads, with one being blown into the overpass guard rail. No taxis. Emergency vehicles were barely making it through the roads. At least 200 people stuck underground in the subway station. So after a futile two hours, I decided to venture back to Manhattan. Several subways later, I was miraculously rescued by the hospitality of a friend from Regis High School (whom I only know from an alumni network and met once in San Francisco, so thank you, OPEN Regis!), Jim McCarrick
December 27, 2010. The next morning, the clothes were dry but roads were still a mess so I hunkered down in Manhattan for the next two days and made the most of it. It turns out that "walking distance" to a subway station is also a distance that can be traveled via snowmobile - wish I had a photo of that, but Jim and I witnessed it!
First stop after stranding: Apple Store on Fifth Avenue (open 24 hours!) to get a new charger for the iPhone - phew!
If the chickadees can survive the blizzard, so can I!
Fountain in front of the Plaza Hotel.
Morning brought clear skies over these wreaths at the Plaza Hotel.
Central Park South.
NYC Taxis are always crazy, but maybe not crazy enough to handle this weather!
Snowdrifts + Snowplows = Buried Cars. This is why most New Yorkers don't have them!
After Christmas sale: trees delivered for zero - what a bargain!
I think there is a fire hydrant under this blizzard snowman.
Day after the blizzard: still very windy - that's snow being blown off buildings and swirling around Times Square.
Bar at Sosa Borella (Italian and Argentian cuisine) - a great find!
Parmesan Cheese "crackers," parsley pesto, warm bread, and a mango mojito. What blizzard?
As the mayor himself announced, the city had survived and Broadway was still open for business. So my plans were intact... Off I went to the Al Hirschfeld Theater (another one of my favorite Broadway interiors) to see my friend Chad Beguelin's writing work transform a Will Ferrell holiday movie into a live show. All holiday themed shows seem to do well on Broadway (White Christmas, How The Grinch Stole Christmas, even Cirque du Soleil's Wintuk) and I've seen those and this one was also enjoyable. A simple plot with a nice "Christmas spirit" message - but then, don't all those holiday stories have that? Well, the performances were solid, the material was fun, the kid-friendly and sold-out family audience loved it, former "Jersey Boy" Sebastian Arcelus owned the show as Buddy the Elf, and everyone left smiling - back out into the cold wind and slushy mess.
Day 3, Show 5.
To celebrate surviving the blizzard, I had to stop at a favorite bar/restaurant, 44 & X in Hell's Kitchen for my annual Broadway-themed cocktail (or two) and some post-show nosh.
Jim McCarrick, my gracious snowstorm host and me at 44 & X.
Me with Scott Hart, co-owner and proprietor of 44 & X.
My chosen Broadway cocktails (that night): Angels in A-pear-ica, A Life in the 3-tre, Pee-Wee's Gin House. (I've always been tempted by the "Wicked" Cosmopolitan - sure it would be a fun drink and make for a fun photo, but I think I will stick by my rule of staying clear of bright green and bright blue drinks. Ladies, am I right?)
(Go ahead: refill the cocoa or switch to some hot cider or tea.
Half of the trip is now blogged. Almost done.)
Winter in New York City is my favorite season: the air is crisp and clear, everything sparkles, and the lights twinkle in a special way.
Subway stations were fairly deserted: people smartly stayed indoors in the blizzard.
Lonely streetlight in Central Park: where's Mister Tumnus? Is this the way to Narnia?
Approaching Chelsea - blizzard did not white-out this colorful building.
Prayer/Memorial Ribbons at Marble Collegiate Church.
Giant place setting window display made me hungry!
Even the garbage trucks were stuck and not moving anywhere.
Flatiron Building.
In Chelsea.
At Mario Batali's Eataly!
Greens galore.
More beverages (but not at BevMo).
Pasta, pasta, pasta.
A magical pasta machine.
Veggies prepped to order. Does Project Open Hand know about this?!?!
Afternoon munchies satisfied with some fresh mozzarella, basil, warm walnut bread, and a pinot grigio. Thanks, Eataly!
Time Warner Center in the daylight.
Columbus Circle.
Central Park.
Carriages awaiting everywhere!
Is anyone sitting here? Guess not...
Fifth Avenue, Central Park East.
Central Park Zoo.
Hotel Pierre - site of my high school prom!
Pegasus window display (Bergdorf Goodman).
The 57th Street snowflake.
More Fifth Avenue windows.
Trump Tower.
Emporio Armani.
Sometimes it's good to look up, not just around.
Building lobby.
A whole world of M&Ms? Awesome.
NYPD preparing for New Year's Eve in Times Square.
A canopy of lights blanketing West 55th Street.
December 28, 2010. The days continued, as did the Broadway Blitz.
Day 4, Show 6.
Yes indeed, he's a Tony Award winning star!
I had been a fan of Levi Kreis for years - having serendipitously found his music as an independent singer-songwriter. When I read that he was performing in a new musical in Chicago, I begged my sister to get me the cast recording and I jealously knew from the first listen that the sellout crowds in Chicago were witnessing a pre-Broadway spectacle. Months later, it was announced that the show got financial backing to go to Broadway and was transferring the original cast and I knew Million Dollar Quartet would be on my short list to see. The Nederlander Theater is totally transformed from its days hosting RENT, but it seemed fitting that a rock opera musical would be followed by this stomp-your-feet, clap-your-hands, stand-up-and-cheer non-stop virtual concert about a one-night only event that united four legends of rock-and-roll in a historic jam session. And Levi Kreis fully proved why he won the Tony Award - his musical and vocal prowess were certainly matched by the other performers (who all sang and played their own instruments live), but it was his facial expressions and exuberant personality that filled the stage like a master class in how an actor can fully embody a character, not just perform a caricature. This was 90 minutes of thrill, with a story that was more fully developed and realized than any other jukebox musical in recent memory.
December 29, 2010. The next day was the second of my three Triple Play Days, and I started back at New World Stages for the second of three kid-friendly family shows Off-Broadway. You might be asking why I would bother to see a cute musical about three fish on a hunt for secret treasure when the treasure is actually the power of their own imaginations and friendships. Altogether now: awww... But the show was created by John Tartaglia, who has already proven he is more than just a talented puppeteer and actor from Avenue Q. So I went to support his efforts, and this show was surprisingly fun - definitely more fulfilling than I expected. Note to Julie Taymor and the company of Spider-Man: Turn Off The Dark: see this Off-Broadway teensy weensy show to see how theatrical special effects can really be done right - no wires, no stunt doubles, no accidents, no special rigging, and no 65-million dollar budget; just great puppetry, some glow-in-the-dark paint, a shadowbox puppet theater and a true artistic devotion to telling a story. Thank you, John Tartaglia for sticking to you your craft and doing it justice.
Day 5, Show 7: John Tartaglia's ImaginOcean at New World Stages.
A brief break in the schedule before the afternoon and evening shows to take in some more sights and make a seasonal pit stop...
Playground in Hell's Kitchen.
Worldwide Plaza.
Time Square.
Hello, DD. I've missed you!
Gingerbread Donut: a perfect fueling snack!
Day 5, Show 8: Sondheim strikes again!
Similar to my experiences at the Music Box Theatre, the Walter Kerr Theatre has also been good to me through the years. From Proof to Doubt to Grey Gardens, the shows I have seen here have been great, the views have been stunning, and the audiences have been very appreciative. This time out was no different: Broadway legends Bernadette Peters and Elaine Stritch, for crying out loud! Now, I'm not a Sondheim devotee, mind you. Yes, I appreciate the intricacies of his lyrics and music but I have always found some problems in the books of his shows: either the pacing or the overall clunkiness of his second acts, whatever. And I have always thought of A Little Night Music as not just somber and serious but dark and fairly twisted in some of its themes. But Bernadette Peters and Elaine Stritch defied my comprehension of this material by finding genuinely sharp comedic moments throughout the show. I couldn't believe I was laughing out loud and cheering during this musical - that has never happened with me and this show. And now more than ever, I am certain that Catherine Zeta-Jones (as talented as she may be) won her Tony Award by sheer force of will, stamina, and celebrity fame because Bernadette Peters gave the most emotionally powerful performance of "Send In The Clowns" I have ever heard or seen - the woman was singing with perfect pitch and clarity through genuinely acted and choked-back tears. How is that possible?!?! Three curtain calls for a deliriously pleased audience were well earned by both stars, and it was a joy to see them both skipping away into the wings: they should be happy with their turns in this show for a long time to come (but come back to the boards soon anyway)!
Day 5, Show 9.
Evening show that day was at one of the largest theaters on Broadway: and it was all "Mad Men" inspired mod style and fun. Sadly, my beloved Kristin Chenoweth had already left the show and will only be back for its final performance. But take note of this name: Sarah Jane Everman - not only did she nail the correct balance of comedy and drama in the tricky leading lady role, but her voice was uncannily Chenoweth-esque: pixie sweet soprano one moment and booming bellowing full voice the next moment. She will definitely appear in a future program in my collection. Sean Hayes was very funny with the physical comedy (like a combination of Buster Keaton, Charlie Chaplin, Lucille Ball, Carol Burnett and even "Jack" from Will & Grace), and his voice was steady and strong, tinged with a constant vibrato. Molly Shannon made a hilarious Broadway debut too, in a role perfectly suited to her best Saturday Night Live antics. It was an effervescent evening, a fine ending to the Triple Play Day, and a nice way to end my stranding in Manhattan.
Since one star was out and the other star was not exiting by the stage door, I happily settled for a photo with Flatboard Sean Hayes and Flatboard Kristin Chenoweth (both, possibly life-sized)!
December 30, 2010. Final full day in New York gave me a final Triple Play Day that once again started with a family show at New World Stages. (Lest you think it's all freckles, fish, and fun there, let me remind you that this is also the theater complex that was also currently showing the decidedly adult fare of The 39 Steps, Avenue Q, and Naked Boys Singing - so why didn't I see those shows? Oh yeah, I've seen them already. Multiple times in multiple cities.)
Day 6, Show 9: The Gazillion Bubble Show. Not much to say about this: one bubble artist, some bubble-making tools, audience participation, lasers, light effects, fog machines, and yes a whole lot of bubbles. The result: kids squealing with delight, a theater full of soapy spheres, and smiling adults.
Day 6, Show 11: Time Stands Still, with Laura Linney, Brian d'Arcy James, Eric Bogosian, and Christina Ricci.
For the afternoon show, it was an all-star cast of four, tightly performing a rather cerebral but predictable story. Still, it was a joy to see such strong talent take to the stage. In her Broadway debut, Christina Ricci more than holds her own against the three stage veterans - she should be back on Broadway soon enough. The story was serious and emotional, with a few moments of comedic release sprinkled around. Laura Linney's performance proves that she is a seriously under-appreciated and under-awarded actress of the finest caliber - absolutely in command! More, please.
Poster for Bloody Bloody Andrew Jackson.
For the finale of my 2010 Broadway Blitz, I chose Bloody Bloody Andrew Jackson (BBAJ). I had been following the news of this show since its Off-Broadway run and happy Broadway transfer. I had listened to the cast recording despite reports that the spirit of the show was not adequately captured in that format. And all week, I had seen posters proclaiming that even though the show was closing just days after I would see it, "Broadway just got all 'Sexy Pants'." Yeah, my expectations were high for Bloody Bloody Andrew Jackson.
Day 6, Show 12.
My review in one word? - Awesome! Anyone who has not seen this musical? Well, I'm sorry to report that you have missed something truly magical. Like Fela! and Spring Awakening, the set and lighting design of this show extend fully through the house, so the moment the doors opened and I walked into the theater, the sense of something brooding and dazzling and mystical and grungy was palpable. And the "sexy pants?" Yeah, the entire ensemble cast and especially the leading man brought it, beat it, killed it, sexed it, ate it up, tore it up, and had a great time. The show is smart, surprisingly funny and sly, historically based, youthful, exuberant, and energetic. And yes, it is for sure sexy. A nonstop rock concert stomping through history in a way that makes modern politics relevant and conflicted and suspicious and familiar all over again - a bloody bloody good time and a great end to my New York City holiday! This one is my pick for the 2010 Best New Musical Tony Award.
Me with the utterly sensual rockstar personification of the seventh president of the United States, Benjamin Walker.
So there you have it: my holiday trip all summed up. I always consider myself fortunate for having grown up in New York City because I believe that upbringing makes it possible for me to survive any other location. Visits back there are always a treat. It is possible to go back home again. And again and again, I hope. One day to get there, one day to come back. All good days in between.
Hello, Airbus 319/320 at LGA: how I wish you were taking me home to St. Louis.
Somewhere between LGA > IAD > STL: morning rises over my two consecutive regional jets (Canadair and Embraer).
December 31, 2010. What did Santa give me this year? A Big Apple, and I took a hearty bite out of it. Thanks, NYC - I do love you and I'll see you again soon!
"Dessert" after breakfast for one; United Airlines Red Carpet Club, LaGuardia Airpoirt.
This is less of a diary and more of a journal: my musings and questions and reflections about whatever strikes my fancy. Perhaps you will feel engaged in a virtual conversation with me, with the thoughts, with the topics, and perhaps most importantly, with the questions. I hope you enjoy this!
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