Lessons Learned...: 2012 = 40 + 1

Birthday Adventure 2012!

I don't really know how or when it happened, but some time ago, I got an image stuck in my head of me reading on a beach surrounded by waterfalls. Maybe it was after I learned that the "Jurassic Park" movies were filmed there (along with countless others), or maybe it was every other vacation I had taken on one of the other islands of Hawaii when I longed for more solitude and quiet and less development and tourism, or maybe it was after I read an article in the United Airlines in-flight magazine on some non-tropical flight plan in a trip gone by. But the image stayed with me and crystallized over time to be a plan to take a solo vacation to Hawaii's "Garden Island" of Kauai. I thought 2011 would be the year to do it: I would enter my fourth decade in this dreamscape made real. Well, the job change and interstate move in December 2010 made the timing all wrong, but dreams like that can't fade away too easily, so although it was one year delayed, I made it happen and I celebrated my 41st birthday living my imagined reality.

Embraer 145 STL > IAH.

Hoping the inter-terminal train at IAH is quick enough to get me to flight #2!

Fruit, cheese, crackers, pecans, juice, and coffee. What else do I need? Oh yeah: lots more "else!"

That's more like it: I graduate to a "big boy" plane and the 757's Rolls Royce engines take me IAH > LAX.

Third flight leaves the mainland, passing the Channel Islands off of Southern California and another 757 is taking me LAX > LIH.

Chips, salsa, granola bar, fruit and nut trail mix, dark chocolate pretzel, tomato juice, and coffee - is this really enough to be called the "savory" snackbox?

The setting sun signals a westbound descent over the Pacific into my Hawaiian destination!

January 3, 2012: Travel Day
Almost too excited to sleep after packing light clothes lightly in the frigid night of a Saint Louis, MO New Year week. The day would involve over 10 hours of flying time, 4 time zones, over 4,000 miles, 3 flights, and 2 snack boxes as my only nourishment en route. I peacefully marveled (as I often do) on the thrilling science of modern flight and prayed silently that my tight connections would work out. Before I knew it, we were descending through evening skies into Lihue Airport, Kauai, Hawaii.

The trusty rental car: 6 days, 1 tank of gas, 2 U-turns, 0 accidents.

Good fortune (and a good online deal) brought me to the same hotel mentioned in the "Hemispheres" article from 2007.

The staff was nice enough to upgrade the room to the top (4th) floor - nice!

As my very good friend, longtime mentor, and one-time travel companion, Vasti, once told me: "It's not a vacation until you have to make a U-turn!" The evening landing in Lihue was smooth and easy. Apparently, there are very few direct flights from the mainland to Kauai and a 757 is a seeming giant on the tarmac there (most people fly in on smaller planes from another Hawaiian island). My best friend Greg flew in from San Francisco to join me on this adventure and he was waiting at the airport, ready to get the car and get to a cocktail! And after picking up the rental car, the not-so-developed feeling that I was hoping for had great promise because all the towns and the main highway roads were pitch black and signs were hard to read (especially after a day of flying). Two U-turns later, we were at the Sheraton Kauai Beach Resort in Poipu on the south side of the island - my cozy home for my birthday week. A quick stop at the hotel's bar/restaurant right next to their beachside pools for our first mai tais, and it was early (and fast) to bed for much needed sleep. After all, morning would bring a big event...

This birthday card was delivered in person all the way from San Francisco, CA by best friend courier service!

How nice of my hotel to give me a birthday card upon arrival: and the gift inside? Free mai tais at their beachside bar - yes, please!

First sunrise in Poipu, Kauai, Hawaii

January 4, 2012: Happy Birthday to Me!
And as fast as you could say, "Aloha!" the big day was here. I woke up in Kauai, Hawaii and was now 41. Age = no big woop. Location = really big woop.

Breakfast buffet in the hotel courtyard, amongst the wildlife (animals and some humans), then a stop at the "Pleasant Hawaiian" activity desk. Isaac, who really was pleasant, hooked us up with a full itinerary that included almost everything I wanted to do. (The tides that week were predicted to be way too stormy to allow for the inflatable Zodiac raft ride into an ocean cave, so that will have to be some other future trip - keeping it on the adventure bucket list.) From the south side of the island, Greg and I took a long drive around the east side of the island, with a stop at a lighthouse, and then to the north side (to where the road literally ended) to enjoy a "secret" beach - accessible only by boat or mountain hike (4-6 miles, cliffside). Route = Poipu > Koloa > Lihue > Wailua > Kapaa > Kilauea > Princeville > Haena > Hanalei > return. The generous warmth and easy hospitality of the Hawaiian "Aloha Spirit" was immediately and comfortably surrounding us all day long.

Breakfast on the courtyard lanai under chandeliers that looked like giant sea glass mosaics.

Bird (dinosaur descendant) hunting the koi in the courtyard fish pond - not a vegetarian breakfast!

My dream came true: woke up to a beachside sunrise in Kauai, Hawaii!

Greg agrees: who cares about morning clouds?

This trusty little red Ford Focus transported us all week (happily, not in the trunk).

"Tree Tunnel" headed north from Koloa to Lihue and parts east/north on the island.

View of the north Na'Pali coast from Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge.

Very high surf pounding away at the seabird rookery.

Frigatebird sighted overhead.

Preview of even more to come...

The Kilauea Lighthouse.

Wishing there will be dolphins on this trip...

It's migration season for the Pacific Humpback Whales: no sightings yet...

Original lighthouse; modern light beacon.

Koa'e

Iwa

Prop Roots of the Hala Tree: holla!

...or else risk getting bird-pooped on, for sure!

Already a very full half-day on my 2012 birthday!

After this wildlife-watching break, it was off to some of the more remote stops of the vacation - along single lane roads with road signs warning of road wash-outs due to high tides and other signs reminding drivers of the island custom to let 5-7 cars cross single-lane bridges before taking a turn in the opposite direction. The trek would soon move from vehicular to pedestrian.

Near the end of the road, with giant vines covering a lava wall.

Lava tube cave near the beach.

That breakfast buffet might not last all 11 miles, but let's see how far we get...

A muddy, rocky, up-and-down trail to the secret beach.

Walking through the Garden Isle's jungles.

Already a few thousand feet above the Kee Beach (used as location for "South Pacific" movie) - high surf advisory!

Log steps climbing up to another switchback.

Na'Pali Coast.

Hala Tree seed pods.

Greg in grey, surrounded by greens and blues.

Cliffs surrounding the hike.

Mile marker on trail.

Sun peeking through clouds.

Floral color with another view of Na'Pali behind.

OK, consider myself duly warned.

Five valleys later, we made it to Hanakapi'ai Beach - and celebrate with headstands!

Driftwood marks dangerous riptide.

Rescue Tube: as if any of the tourists will know how to use this?

Waterfall-fueled cool freshwater pools just above the beach.

No shortcuts!

Thankfully, I did not become a hash mark!

Greg attempts to squash some hikers.

Hello there, little field mouse on the trail!

Lifeguard station at Kee Beach.

Leave the rescues to the pros.

Why did this chicken cross the road? To peck at some freshly husked coconut!

More vines.

Surfboards in Hanalei.

Also crossed off the list: visit Puff The Magic Dragon's hometown!

Wyland "whaling wall" mural on the return to Poipu.

After burning all those calories on the long hike of day one, we had to have a proper birthday dinner. But first, we spotted some whale spouts from the hotel beach and got our first Kauai sunset.

Hey the iPhone 4 takes mighty fine pics in Kauai!

Sculpture at the hotel.

Pathway lighting at the Sheraton.

I'll have the Lava Flow, to start!

Birthday cocktails at the Beach House.

Yum!

Also yum!

Birthday dinner, complete with tiki torches!

Why should the cocktail have all the fun with a paper umbrella?

January 5, 2012
And just like that, the birthday came and went. But the adventure continued, this time wrapping around the west side of the island: breakfast at Kalaheo Cafe for anahola granola, veggie wrap sandwich, and macadamia nut French toast. Today's hike would go around Waimea Canyon, with views beyond all comparison.

Everyone recommended this stop!

Even the coffee has Aloha Spirit!

Greg surrounded a flock of locals.

Scenic overlook:

Now that's an amazing morning view!

The northwestern end of the road.

Somewhere behind those cliffs is yesterday.

The bathroom graffiti gets it right.

Prance.

Does hiking this trail condition my hair?

Again: take heed.

"...or killed." Nice.

White tree; blue sky.

An abandoned glove on the trail almost gives the "Hang Loose" shaka.

Fern unfurling.

Another trail conquered.

Greg, framed by the jungle.

"In the jungle, the mighty jungle..."

Whale vertebra in Waimea Canyon lookout station museum.

Words to honor one of the wettest spots on earth, Mt. Wai'ale'ale.

At Hawaii's "Grand Canyon."

Postcard-ready foliage.

Waimea Canyon.

"Hello, Gorgeous."

Greg takes in the sight.

A local performer gives me a ti leaf crown and a birthday blessing.

After Waimea Canyon, a stop at Wong's to pick up lilikoi chiffon pie, butter mochi, and macadamia nut cheesecake for dessert to go!

Poolside, back at the Sheraton.

Preparing for the Poipu sunset.

Across the street from the hotel parking lot.

Sinking into the waves.

Cocktails, pizza, and pasta in Koloa...

...also by tiki light.

Windchimes walking around Old Town Koloa.

January 6, 2012
Today included what was unquestionably the highlight of the trip: an afternoon sail to the Na'Pali Coast and sunset dinner cruise on Captain Andy's catamaran. The crew of four truly generous and attentive guys made everyone feel safe and happy. The crew even made sure we had grilled vegetables on the buffet line. The wildlife previews and lifelong dreams all came true: an albatross sighting brought good luck for us to see flying fish, spinner dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, and humpback whales! I rode on the trampoline deck of the ship and had not a care in the world, even though I was drenched with Pacific spray. I don't think I stopped smiling all afternoon and evening.

Cloud-draped center of the island, from the rear balcony of our hotel room.

Red Bridge in Sheraton courtyard.

Sneaking into the post-breakfast foliage.

Red Dirt T-Shirt factory.

Waiting to board...

On board the "Akiaola" - and this catamaran would soon be buzzing like its hummingbird namesake!

Leaving Port Allen.

Getting hit with ocean spray (not the juice) in the bright afternoon tropical sun.

Dolphin slapping its tail at us: it wants us to follow and play!

Dolphins riding the bow wave of the catamaran.

We were cutting through the water at 10-20 knots and this dolphin rode the bow wave for several minutes - never once moving its flukes: that is expert bodysurfing!

Video Bonus: Greg's clip of the dolphins having fun - breathtaking joy for all of the humans on Captain Andy's sunset Na'Pali cruise!

The Na'Pali Coast.

North side of Kauai.

Word and photos can not do justice to this landscape.

In the afternoon sun.

Monty works the rigging.

Scotty and Tony prepare us for motoring.

Greg and the north coast.

View before dinner is served.

Awaiting the buffet line - drinks were non-stop!

Yup: the wind whipped my hair back and forth!

High clouds over one of the waterfall valleys.

Coming about to head back to the marina.

"What are you looking at? Vogue!"

My new shell and coconut bracelets, over the trampoline deck, over the speedy catamaran wave.

Captain Aaron, Monty, and Tony mugging it up for the photo.

Happily taking it all in.

Not faking it: Captain Aaron let me drive for a bit.

Greg and I in the wheelhouse.

Front into the sun.

Another gorgeous sunset, with Ni'ihau in the distance.

Crepuscular Rays ("God's Rays") of the setting sun.

Humpback whales!

We were zipping along, but luckily never needed the sideboards!

In the glow of the Hawaiian sunset.

Hoping to catch the "Green Flash."

Why yes, indeed, we've had fun!

Unlimited mai tais? Yes, please!

Humpback whale breaching - amazing to see so close to us in open water!

Everyone's excitement and the rocky waves made for a blurry picture, but this is a mother humpback whale (above center) and a newborn calf (right of center) who is practicing to breach - a natural wonder to behold!

Back on dry land, Greg and I with the whole crew of the Akiaola: Monty, Scotty, Captain Aaron, Tony.

January 7, 2012
Sadly, this was the date of my return ticket to depart Hawaii. Happily, I was scheduled on a red-eye itinerary, so there was still time to pack in one more Birthday Adventure. So the last "must do" on my list? That would be ziplining through the verdant valleys of this island. Driving to Hanama'ulu Valley before the sunrise was well worth it: a thrilling last day here.

Driving east to a morning adventure.

Yup: we are definitely going up into the backcountry on this all-terrain beast - past grazing cows through private land to ziplining fun!

Tower 2: high above the valley.

Geared up for 7 ziplines down to the river valley below: top-ranked, some of the highest and longest ziplines in the U.S.

Chris (brakeman) takes off on Line 1.

Greg comes in for landing #1.

Warning heeded.

Tim (advance scout and driver) tests Line 3.

Looks simple enough...

Brake on Line 6.

6 ziplines done; ready for the final flight over the river.

Picnic lunch overlooked a watering hole in the riverbend.

Greg braved the cool water to take a dip.

Lovely flower at lunch.

Thrilled for what I accomplished, thanks to this fine Kauai Backcountry Adventures crew: many thanks to Jamie, Chris (no, that's not David "Bud Bundy" Faustino), and Tim.

Video bonus: here's my Greg zipping on Line 3!

The zipline adventure worked up the appetite beyond the picnic lunch, and there was still half a day to fill before the flight back too the mainland. So the smaller excursions we reserved on the itinerary filled up the rest of that time.

Stops at the Kauai Kookie Company, and then the Kauai Chocolate Store.

When in Rome...one must stop here.

With fresh tasting cup (#4) in hand, I start the walking tour through the plantation.

Giant mortar and pestle.

Now that's a grinder!

A factory second?

Greg at the coffee berry drying station.

The colors were so bright in the afternoon sun!

This spider's X marks the spot for good coffee!

Red bottlebrush flower.

Hang loose, Kauai Coffee Company scarecrow!

I'm sure most national parks do not have this sign posted.

Spouting Horn: a natural blowhole in the lava rock coast located in the Koloa district near Poipu (which means "crashing").

Bleached driftwood and black lava rock.

After some final sun-soaking time at the pool, it was a last supper in the nearby Poipu Shopping Village at Keoki's Paradise - complete with a frozen blended drink, served in a pineapple.

So there it is, and there it was. A Birthday Adventure vacation over a year in the making, and so worth every second of the wait. Memories to last a lifetime, fun times accomplished over and over. In less than a full week, I even left Kauai as the FourSquare mayor of: Kauai Kookie Company; Kauai Chocolate Company; Kawailoa Bay; and Poipu, Hawaii. Some people told me it would be so hard to go back to work after Hawaii, but it really wasn't. The overnight flight and return to cold wind, snow, and ice was certainly a change of pace. But that Aloha Spirit is gleefully infectious and made me appreciate the joy of exploring and traveling and living as much as possible. Going back to work wasn't hard at all: this trip reminded me that I am privileged to be employed doing meaningful (and challenging) work. And doing the work earns vacation adventures like this one, although this birthday will be a tough one to ever match or surpass. That won't stop me from trying: my imagination is already scheming for 2013!